The following drawings and tables describe quite well the construction of this antenna. You can mouse-click on all drawings to get a zoomed view of them.

Here are a few additional notes to consider:

• Using a felt tip pen, mark the wire at every 14.75 cm, the equivalent length of one turn of wire. In total, mark the wire 17 times (16 turns). Perform this task on a flat surface such as a table before forming the wire turns.
• To form the wire coil, use a cylinder shaped tube with a diameter slightly smaller that the final diameter to achieve. In the end, all the pen markings should line up with each other.
• Drill holes whose size matches the hot glue sticks (standoffs) diameter. In this case, a 1.1 cm (7/16") diameter is required. Drill only one face of the square boom, that is, the face which will receive the standoff.
• The hot glue stick standoffs are cut 0.3 cm longer than the optimal length that would maintain the wire coil centered around the boom. Remember to include in your calculations the part of the stick that is inserted inside the boom. For my antenna, the total length was 3.1 cm.
• A 0.3 cm deep slot is grooved at the tip of each of the standoffs. The slot depth is calculated in order to maintain the wire coil centered with reference to the square boom. In this case a coil radius of 2.3 cm is targeted. The easiest way to create the slots is to use a heated piece of #12 (AWG) wire and to force it against the standoff tip. This will melt the tip down to the required slot depth.
• The standoff tip slots must be oriented with an angle of 12 degrees with the antenna reflector. This will accomodate the wire coil and preserve its shape.
• You can apply some hot glue at the standoff extremeties. This will hold the wire in place.
  You can paint the antenna parts that are more susceptible to deterioration: the hot glue standoffs, the copper wire and matching plate.